Making thread over a cylindrical surface

Discussion in 'Pro/Engineer & Creo Elements/Pro' started by kanha, Oct 6, 2006.

  1. kanha

    kanha Guest

    I am trying from last few weeks
    but i am unable to do threading over a cylindrical surface.
    help me sorting out how to do this?
     
    kanha, Oct 6, 2006
    #1
  2. kanha

    Stu Guest

    The easiest way would be to buy a die and handle-
    put the cylinder into a vice and spin the die onto the end.
    The trick is to put a mild pressure on the die holding it tight to the
    end of the cylinder while the thread starts cutting.
    Voila- Done- !

    Now there *ARE* other options for threading, like using a lathe, cnc
    milling, etc..
    What exactly are you looking for?




    Hey Dave, this sort of reply is kinda fun :)
     
    Stu, Oct 6, 2006
    #2
  3. kanha

    John Wade Guest

    Do you mean you want your start surface to be a cylinder?
     
    John Wade, Oct 6, 2006
    #3
  4. kanha

    David Janes Guest

    Nothing beats the thread mill! (In that spirit of fun)
    Okay, okay, the guy's taken enough ribbing:
    So, sujit ojha, you wish to make a screw thread, correct? In Pro/e, do
    'Insert>Helical Sweep'. If you've tried this, what is your problem? You
    first sketch the length of the cut by drawing a line as long as the cut
    (along the edge of the cylinder). Then, you sketch the profile of the
    cutting "tool", the tip of the single point lathe threading tool that Stu
    and John referred to (hint: it's an isoscelese triangle, 60-60-60), the base
    of the triangle at the surface of the cylinder, the point "inside" where
    metal will be cut. As the cylinder rotates, the lathe point also advances,
    at the rate of the "pitch", which is generally one triangle base per
    revolution. So, when it asks you for the pitch, you give it the base length
    or 1/base for US Customary Units, or TPI.) To review, there are three
    elements to a Pro/e thread: a length sketch showing, graphically, how far
    the thread goes, the pitch information (how far does the thread advance in
    one revolution of the screw) and the cutting tool profile (isoscelese
    triangle). Anything else we can do for you today!?! BTW, this description
    was based on the model of a subtractive thread (cylinder at major diameter,
    cut tip to minor diameter); another model that's commonly used is additive:
    cylinder at root or minor diameter, and the triangle adds thread material.
    This is all I know about threads. (Well, almost.)

    David Janes
     
    David Janes, Oct 6, 2006
    #4
  5. kanha

    scjsuraj Guest


    use in advance option helical sweep
    Or In cosmatic treds
     
    scjsuraj, Oct 9, 2006
    #5
  6. kanha

    Polymer Man Guest

    Then there are the threads that are used in plastic. If they're
    additive on the part, they're subtractive in the mold. What difference
    does this make? In an unscrewing mechanism, there must not be an
    undercut in the helix, so the end of the thread must terminate in the
    major diameter. Also, the thread can not go all the way to the starting
    surface because that would create either a diminishing thread (not
    possible in a ground thread) or a thread that continues out into the
    air (which would mean continues out into the steel, a thread grinder
    crash).

    Then there are the threads that are molded "in draw", there is often an
    undercut created near the parting line. There are a few different ways
    of dealing with this, but your approach will dictate your modeling
    approach.

    Sometimes I'll leave the major or minor diameter sharp to assist the
    tool guy by giving them an trajectory to follow, with the understanding
    the real profile will not be sharp.

    The reason I bring this up is, I once designed a plastic assembly with
    threads like a machined thread, you know with a chamfer on the end etc.
    The parts wouldn't stay together due to insufficient thread engagement
    because where my last and first thread were chamfered, the thread in
    the plastic part didn't start until the thread profile became constant.
    I lost 1/2" a turn on both pieces, the result being they could be
    "popped loose".

    Finally, the default helix starts and stops abruptly. To fix this you
    can create a helical surface, apply a vertex round, and have a good
    edge to use as a trajectory with a VSS. Trim it up neat with surfacing.
    This creates the nice clean end to your thread.

    Also, creating threads on a helical surface is the best way I know to
    machine a pipe thread due to the taper. The thread mill function in
    Pro/NC doesn't do tapers.

    Plastic threads are often not 60 deg. They're often 7 on one flank and
    45 on the other. This creates either a push or a pull buttress thread.
    Stronger and a thinner root.
     
    Polymer Man, Oct 21, 2006
    #6
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