Drawing plywood sheathing for roof - do you draw perspective?

So if my roof Pitch is 4 in 12 and I'm putting down 4'x8' sheets of plywood.
do I draw the plywood @ 4' wide or 3.794' wide?

Thanks,
Scott<-

my calcs for 3.794
Sq(A) + Sq(B) = Sq(C)

So for a 4 in 12 pitch you have
Sq(A*3) + Sq(A) = Sq(4)
9 * Sq(A) + Sq(A) = 16
10*Sq(A) = 16
Sq(A) = 1.6
A = SqRt(1.6)
A = 1.2649

A*3 = 3.794

 

48^2 - 16^2 = 2048; SQR(2048) = 45.254" = 3.77'

Most architects and designers with whom I'm familiar don't bother to detail
every sheet of plywood. If you feel you must, then I suppose you'd want to
use the 3.77' dimension (or 7.54' for sheets applied perpendicular to the
ridge). Usually a simple callout will suffice, however.
___

 

I thought as much, though this is kind of my first drawing. Kind of flying
by the seat of my pants!

I was just putting on the roof of one structure that happened to be an even
multiple of 4', then when I went to the other it occurred to me that I'm not
drawing something that is really in the XY plane.

My Model set of prints shows 4'x8', but after being photocopied I could have
lost the .23 (-;

So then when drawing the roof I guess I really only want to throw on a few
sheet of plywood and callout the type and placement?

Thanks!
Scott<-

 

To add to Mr. Turvill's post:

He might be doing shop drawings? If not, abide by P.T.'s suggestion.

 

Funny that you mention Shop Drawings... Yes and no... (-; It is a drawing
of a shop...a Shop/Garage.

I've included a PDF of the Elevation Views in the Customer Files Section:
Titled: Shop-Garage Elevations

Scott<-

 

MHO, it doesn't matter how you do it the "nail drivers" will do as they see
fit.

Murph

 

3D model it.

 

Murph: That's what construction specifications are for. In Section 06100, Rough Carpentry, you can describe what type of sheathing is to be used, how the sheets are to be oriented, how many fasteners per inch should be provided, and how the sheets are to be placed with respect to each other.

Since specifications are part of the contract documents, the nail drivers are required to follow them as well as drawings.

 

I won't argue that, but as a former nail driver those pieces of paper
usually get put behind a truck seat and stay there.

Murph

 

Murph,

I have to agree. When we did the office addition at my house the
framers did almost all their layout using just a piece of string. The
one thing they measured was the existing hip roof pitch over the garage,
which they used for the new trusses. The trusses had to match up with
the hip roof on the front porch. Conventionally framed house. 4:12
pitch on the garage, 3.5:12 on the porch. They also left the roof open
on two weekends when we had major rain storms. Lots of water damage to
the rest of the house.

Similar with the stucco contractor. We had specified a three coat
system to match the 35 year old existing stucco. The contractor did
"western one coat". When we complained his reply was, "That's what we
do."


Martin

 

Murph & Martin: Agree with your comments to a point.....Only thing is that IF you have it in the contract (via specifications) you have a much stronger case for recovering damages than the usual ",,,per plans and specs..." language. Doesn't mean that the things both of you mentioned won't still happen but you have a much stronger case when the lawyers get involved.

 

We had the appropriate language. The problem is/was that there's so
much construction activity here that workmanship takes a back seat to
getting to the next job. As far as I'm concerned the work is shoddy,
but if I pursued it the response I'd get would be that the work meets
prevailing standards for the area. I'll looking at a bathroom door at
the moment. On the latch side the stop touches the door at the bottom,
but there's a 3/8" gap between the stop and the door at the top. This
is considered "good enough" here. I could have gone to the Registrar of
Contractors, but the best I'd get there would be instructions to the
contractor to fix things. If they can't do it right the first time why
should do better the second time? And lawyers, why? The lawyers are
the only ones to win when you sue on a project with a $70K total cost.

If I ever build again I want to find a master carpenter who's
semi-retired who will do the entire job himself. And, at the risk of
being politically incorrect, require all workers to speak English fluently.

Martin

 

The biggest problem is that anyone who can pick up and swing a hammer calls themselves a builder. Even the butchers (what I call bad builders) can find a few "good" references. The only way to make sure you have a good builder is to look at his work, and more than one job. If he can't take you to at least 10 jobs at various stages, dump him.

I will take you to every job I have ever done, pride in you work, that is what is missing.

As far as some of the other discussions about drawing roof plywood to exact scale or calling out in specs, what a waste of time. What should be done is find a good builder, one that has a proven reputation. EVEN IF IT COSTS A LITTLE MORE. But there is another problem, we want everything done so cheap.

I could drive a Neon, but I drive a 300M because it IS a better car. You can hire a butcher, or you can hire a builder.

 

Martin: I know where you're coming from with the "...meets prevailing standards..." argument. It's the same "housebuilder mentality" I see all the time.

If you have the language in the contract, you're setting the "standard" for your project regardless of what is deemed the local standard. You're on firm legal ground if you have the time to pursue it. Unfortunately, most just shrug their shoulder and let the SOBs get away with it.