Casting/sand cast design techniques

Discussion in 'SolidWorks' started by matt, Oct 29, 2003.

  1. matt

    matt Guest

    I've worked a lot in plastic part, injection mold and die cast design. Now
    I'm trying to apply some of this to the sand cast process. I worked with
    someone recently who has a particular way of doing it which instinctively
    looks inefficient, but I'm unclear how best to improve it. His process is
    as follows:

    - build casting (engineered part) w/o draft
    - build "template" (casting with core areas filled in)
    - build "core template" (modeling empty space in casting)
    - build "pattern" by cutting casting at the PL - add draft here
    - build core patterns to make cores
    - create halves of cast from drafted patterns
    - assemble halves of cast and cores
    - create a test part from halves of cast and cores
    - compare test part to original cast part design

    Intuitively, I want to start with a casting that has the draft on it, and
    create the halves of the cast and the cores from there, then make the
    patterns from that. Basically I'm trying to work like I do with injection
    mold process.

    How are other people manufacturing sand cast parts doing this?

    thanks in advance...

    matt
     
    matt, Oct 29, 2003
    #1
  2. matt

    MM Guest

    Matt,

    You're right, the process is almost identical. The difference is that the
    casting "should" have two configurations, as cast, and machined. The casting
    model should represent the real world just like any other process. All of
    the cores/cavities should be taken directly from the model. All feature
    changes, or additions/subtractions to the cores/cavities, should be made to
    the model, not the tool components.

    It sounds like your friend is very knowlegable of old school pattern making,
    and He's trying to model this process. No big deal if that's what he's
    comfortable with, but it is convoluted. Problems may arise if someone else
    has to work on the data. Also, design changes will be much more prone to
    error.

    Regards

    Mark
     
    MM, Oct 29, 2003
    #2
  3. matt

    matt Guest


    Exactly right. He's an old timer to be sure, and I think he got his
    start in the wood pattern-making business many moons ago, moved to board
    drafting, then Cadkey, then Pro/E, then SW. I assume he developed this
    way of working from his Pro days.

    The only problem I see with trying to do it the same way as you would do
    a plastic part is that on the casting, if you have areas where you need
    to use draft to add material at the PL, SW can't do that. Well, it
    *can* do it using Step Draft, but only on one side of the PL, not on
    both.

    I've put in an enhancement to see if we can get a draft feature that
    will add material to both sides of the PL, based on a neutral plane at a
    given distance from the PL.

    The old timer's method gets around this limitation by essentially making
    the two sides of the PL separate pattern parts, so he can change draft
    however he likes without worrying about the other side. The
    disadvantage here is obviously that you have to keep track of what
    you've done where to make sure the PL matches on the patterns for the
    two sides.

    Any ideas about that?

    matt.
     
    matt, Oct 29, 2003
    #3
  4. matt

    MM Guest

    Matt,

    Can't you use multi-bodies to some advantage for this ???

    Regards

    Mark
     
    MM, Oct 29, 2003
    #4
  5. matt

    matt Guest

    hmmm

    yes, I suppose you could. Split the part at the PL, make the draft, and
    join it back together. a bit of a kloodge, but it would work.

    If anyone else wants to chip in, I welcome more suggestions!

    matt
     
    matt, Oct 29, 2003
    #5
  6. matt

    Sporkman Guest

    Matt, contact a fellow named Bernie Mares. You can find a post or two
    of his in the Google archives of this newsgroup. He owns a casting shop
    in Portland (OR) and can tell you reams about the approach he takes and
    the reasons for it.

    'Sporky'
     
    Sporkman, Oct 30, 2003
    #6
  7. matt

    Michael Guest

    Agreed on this as a first step, but I figure once and include the
    draft, shrink factor and rough stock from the start.
    Setting the cores and coreprints would be part of the first step, this
    is actually building the inside features of the part as well.
    The parting line is developed in the same first stage, everything is
    related from the parting line, the cope and drag halves of the
    "pattern/mold halves" as well as chucking on a finished part for
    workholding and machining etc. You must know where there may be a bit
    of flash or possibly grind. Shrink factor must also be added, if you
    forget to figure shrink the project will be doomed.
    Still part of the first operation, the cores form the void that will
    become the inside features of the casting.
    I create the casting with draft, shrink and all features. The parting
    is established first, draft works from the parting onto both halves.
    I build a seperate set of surfaces inside the casting that represent
    the machine stock that is to be removed, remember, you are making a
    casting that becomes the machined part. In sand castings, often you
    may need to build a few thou clearance into the parting depending on
    the squeeze pressure available on the equipment.
    I spent 18.5 years building patterns etc for a cast iron foundry.
    Food for thought anyway,
    Michael
    --






    Michael Gailey
    Artistic CNC Mill, Router and Engraver Programming
    3D modeling for Product Design and Development
    http://www.microsystemsgeorgia.com/toc.htm
     
    Michael, Oct 30, 2003
    #7
  8. matt

    JimW Guest

    I have a related die casting question:
    From a tooling standpoint (from the toolmakers view on life, i.e. machining
    the EDM tooling) is it better to put radii in the sketch so that the radii
    decreases with "pocket" depth (I have been cut-extuding with a draft angle),
    or is it better to add the radii after the fact (and end up with "constant"
    radii)? The design I'm working on has about one inch deep pockets so I would
    like to start with a .062 corner radii (in the "sketch"), but the radii at
    the bottom of the pocket ends up very small (.005). Would I be better off
    adding radii "after the fact", or increasing the starting radii in the
    sketch, or.....?
    Jim W.
     
    JimW, Nov 11, 2003
    #8
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